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Méo-Camuzet

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Land: Frankrig

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Domaine Méo Camuzet, Bourgogne

meo_vougeot_bredDomaine Méo-Camuzet er en af de mest berømte producenter i Bourgogne - og har været det længe. Det blev grundlagt i begyndelsen af 1900-tallet af Etienne Camuzet - vinbonde i Vosne-Romanée og repræsentant for Côte-d’Or i det franske deputeretkammer fra 1902 til 1932. Han samlede de fleste af de berømte parceller, som ejendommen den dag i dag stadig består af, foruden ved at være den sidste ejer af slottet Clos de Vougeot, inden han solgte det til vinbroderskabet Confrérie du Tastevin. Parcellerne (i alt 2,9 ha.) på Clos de Vougeot, som Domaine Méo-Camuzet råder over, er blandt de absolut bedste på denne kendte Grand Cru-mark.

Datteren til Etienne Camuzet, Maria Noirot, arvede vinmarkerne efter sin far, men da hun var barnløs ved sin død i 1959, testamenterede hun ejendommen til sit nærmeste familiemedlem, Jean Méo, som dengang var medlem af præsident de Gaulles stab. Maria Noirots ønske var, at alt skulle fortsætte som før på ejendommen, og Jean Méo fastholdt derfor ansættelsen af de såkaldte ”métayers”, markarbejdere og vinbønder, til at bestyre domainet. Som løn for deres indsats fik de halvdelen af høsten, ganske som det ofte har været skik i Bourgogne. En af disse ”métayers” var i øvrigt den legendariske vinmager, Henri Jayer, som var personen bag det ambitiøse mål: Vinene fra Méo-Camuzet skulle samle struktur, finesse, koncentration og charme. Midlerne var først og fremmest at reducere udbyttet til højest 25 hl./ha. eller endnu mindre i visse årgange, 100% afstilkning, 3-5 dages kold-macerering på tank inden den temperaturregulerede alkoholiske gæring, aftapning uden brug af pumper, filtrering og (allerhelst uden) klaring. På denne måde bevarer vinene bedst deres typicitet i respekt for, at vin er en levende substans, som kræver omhu og omtanke for at opnå det bedste resultat.


Jean Méo tog sig selv, af vinsalget til lokale ”négocianter”, mens han stadig passede sit arbejde i Paris. I 1985 begyndte man at sælge vinene fra Domaine Méo-Camuzet direkte fra ejendommen, og fra 1988 overtog Jean Méo også ansvaret for markerne, efterhånden som nogle af disse ”métayers” gik på pension. I dag er 2,5 ha. på ejendommen dog stadig dyrket af ”métayers”. Siden 1989 har ledelsen af domainet været i hænderne på Jean Méos søn, Jean-Nicolas Méo, godt hjulpet af Christian Faurois, som selv har været ”métayer” på ejendommen. De har sammen fastholdt og udbygget de ambitiøse mål for Domaine Méo-Camuzet, således at dets vine stadig rangerer blandt de absolut bedste og mest respekterede i Bourgogne.

I dag råder Domaine Méo-Camuzet over følgende parceller eller appellationer (marker, areal, alder for vinstokke):

Clos Vougeot: 2,90 ha.- 40% 75 år, 60% fra 12 til 35 år

Richebourg: 0,35 ha.- 35/45 år

Echezeaux: 0,45 ha.- 50 år

Corton: 0,45 ha.- 70 år

Vosne Romanée, Aux Brûlées: 0,70 ha.- ca. 70 år

Vosne Romanée, Aux Cros Parantoux: 0,30 ha.- ca. 45 år

Nuits St. Georges, Aux Boudots: 0,50 ha.- 50% 35 år og 50% 50 år

Nuits St. Georges, Aux Murgers: 0,75 ha.- 25/30 år

Vosne Romanée, Les Chaumes: 1,20 ha.- 20/45 år

Vosne Romanée: 1,40 ha.- 20/30 år

Nuits St. Georges: 0,55 ha.- 40/50 år

Bourgogne: 0,75 ha.- 40 år (2/3), 10 år (1/3)

Marsannay Rouge: 0,90 ha.- ca. 10 år

Hautes Côtes-de-Nuits Blanc: 3,60 ha.- ca. 10 år

TOTAL: 14 ha.

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meo_JNMeoEt par ord om dekantering (af Jean Nicolas Méo)

"Bourgogne vine har som regel ikke brug for en lang iltning på karaffel. Men selv med unge årgange kan man ofte opleve, at en vin har brug for iltning. Ved åbning af flasken kan man opleve, at vinen dufter lidt "indelukket". Hvad skal man gøre?

Hvis man åbner en flaske, som skal vare hele måltidet, vil man opleve de forskellige faser, når vinen udvikler sig. Men hvis flasken skal serveres til en bestemt ret, et det bedst, at den er på toppen ved servering. Åbn flasken en time før servering og hæld to glas op, som derefter skal hældes tilbage i flasken. Det skulle bringe ilt nok til vinen, således at de "indelukkede" aromaer forsvinder. Operationen skal selvfølgelig foretages i køkkenet... og er et kompromis mellem det bare at åbne flasken, (som ikke hjælper meget for iltningen), og det at hælde vinen på karaffel, hvor vinen kan risikere at blive iltet for meget".

Jean Nicolas Méos syn på skruelåg (maj 2009):

Why persist in using corks and not change over to screw caps? The question is justified, but nonetheless, the screw cap does have drawbacks. It is hermetic, practically too much so, in fact, because the wine will evolve very little, and there is always the risk of reduction (in other words, it will smell fusty, with rather unpleasant aromas of cowsheds, of leather, etc…) That is why the screw cap, which theoretically would enable wines to keep for a long time, is still limited for the time being to more down-market products to be drunk quickly. In this way, the risk of aromatic deviation, which might develop with time, is avoided.

There are also genuine technical problems when the batches to be sealed are small (the machines take a long time to adjust), and the precautions it is necessary to take when handling and stocking the bottles: in principle, a screw-cap bottle should be stored upright (think of all the bottles of spirits you have at home) in order to avoid any knocks which could damage the cap and thus cause leakage.

Even if the cork industry has progressed, there still remains room for improvement. We have observed a real reduction in TCA levels over the last few years and the problems of corky tastes have become less frequent. Manufacturers, however, have not completely abandoned their bad habits. Miracle solutions are hastily announced but regularly prove to be disappointing half-truths or sometimes blatant deceit: manufacturers would still rather make a sale than enter into a lasting partnership with their customers. Sometimes it’s discouraging, and they haven’t yet won the game: their customers and the consumers still have a long way to go before they regain their confidence.

As for us, our knowledge of the problem is progressing, which enables us to be ever more demanding: the problem of TCA is one thing, but criteria such as the diameter, the elasticity or the density, which all influence the quality of the seal, also need watching. When you consider the progress achieved, cork manufacturers and distributors have won themselves a reprieve. But let’s rule out nothing, as far as the future is concerned.

As if that were not sufficient, the glass manufacturers are making life even more difficult for us. Changing bottles in order to use longer corks for wines to keep (54 millimetres instead of 49) proved to be a real obstacle race. Indeed, we should be aware that using long corks on bottles that are not designed for them is a waste of time and may even be detrimental to the quality. Compared with others, the neck of a Burgundy bottle widens out fairly quickly. A cork that is too long will allow the wine to get between it and the glass and may impair the watertight seal of the bottle. If we are going to use a long cork, we thus need a straight neck. That is where the trouble begins. The glass manufacturers will happily propose a whole range of long-neck models, but without going beyond 45 millimetres. Apparently, that is the norm and they are not obliged to go beyond it. What guarantee do you have that your cork, that will go in as far as 55 millimetres approximately, will not find itself located where the bottle is already too wide for it? None at all. This industry, operating below its capacity, dictates its conditions by organising a situation of shortage (certain glass manufacturers have already been heavily fined by the European Commission for that reason) and cannot be bothered to meet its customers’ expectations.

True, our criteria were stringent: a dark bottle to protect the wine from the light, a straight and measurable neck, a ring (the outer reinforcement around the neck) similar to what we already use, a bottle neither too big nor too heavy to make serving easier and to reduce the environmental impact (indeed, the bottle is the principle element as far as carbon dioxide emissions are concerned in the production of wine)... It would appear that one glass manufacturer, not quite as lazy as the others, has proposed a product that suits us, but not in time, unfortunately, for the bottling of the 2007s. We will have to test our discovery on bigger batches next year.

Hjemmeside for Méo-Camuzet: www.meo-camuzet.com

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Varer:
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Billede:
Billede på vej2
Førpris:
RealPrice:

699,00 DKK